Collectors of antique gold jewelry know that vintage Cartier jewelry and watches are highly desirable. In the late 19th century Cartier goldsmiths began to flourish. Their wealthy patrons sought to secure status through precious metals and gemstones. The companies, like Cartier’s, that survived into the 20th century followed the new art movements and focused on great design work.
Cartier’s Gold and Diamond Jewelry in Europe
Jewelers of the 18th and 19th century owe much of their fortune to diamonds. That is, to a new source of diamond mines discovered in Brazil in 1725. Diamonds in Europe became more easily available. It changed the look of popular jewelry. The stones themselves became important, not the settings. These gemstones inspired the rise of new interest in jewelry.
Large jewelry houses began to open up in Europe. The workshop of Louis Cartier was one of them. Cartier was founded in France in 1847. Louis-Francois Cartier began the company. His son Alfred took over administration of the business in 1874. Alfred’s sons, named Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, are credited with bringing the firm to worldwide prominence.
The company established its name by serving royalty and celebrities. But that began to change. By the early 1900s, the company had branches in London and New York. Each shop was staffed by its own designers and jewelry makers. In London, especially, expert jewelry-making skills were handed down from generation to generation. To this day, fathers and sons are still working side by side.
The jewelry business used to rely on individual craftsmanship and wealthy patrons. However, the new large firms produced goods available to a wider range of people. They began to rely on many designers and skilled workers. Producing Cartier fine jewelry involved several stages:
- An initial pencil sketch
- A colored design
- Selection of stones
- Initial set up in wax.
The model created would show how the piece would look in its final form. The designers then passed it on to the workshop. There, expert jewelry makers began production of the gold and diamond jewelry.
Antique Cartier Watches
Louis Cartier initiated a creative approach to timepieces. In 1904, pocket watches were the norm. One time, an aviator complained to Cartier that it was awkward to try to pull out a pocket watch to check the time while flying. Cartier designed a small, flat timepiece that could be strapped to the wrist. Thus the Santos wristwatch was born and quickly became a hit with Cartier’s many customers.
In 1907 Edmond Jaeger began to make the internal movements for Cartier watches. Success moved Cartier forward into the world market. Fashionable wristwatches replaced pocket watches as styles changed through design movements such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Some early Cartier models include the Baignoire, the Tortue, and the Tank watches.
Cartier’s Lasting Design and Artistic Appeal
Large companies like Cartier moved away from reliance on individual craftsmen. They became modern production studios. They thrived through excellent design and focus on artistic techniques. Some of these vintage pieces are excellent examples of the goldsmith’s art. The precious metals, diamonds, and gemstones make these collectibles excellent investments.
Karla Beatty - "People often ask me, how long have I been an artist? There is only one answer to that--All My Life." Karla Beatty is a life-long ...
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